Patrol to Sayyed Karam

We rolled out of FOB Gardez at approximately 0730 for the run up to Sayyed Karam, a police station (see photo) adjacent to a small city of the same name about an hour away on a low-traffic day, north-northeast of FOB Gardez where we had overnighted.

We rode with 1st Platoon, 92nd Military Police (MP) Company, under command of 1LT Michael Barnhart. The particular model of MRAP we were riding has a large window in the rear door, and windows on the sides, making visibility considerably more user-friendly than the models with less glass. Somehow being able to see what’s happening gives a sense of comfort, regardless of how false.

The 92nd Company is normally organic to the 709th MP Battalion, based out of Baumholder, Germany. Since the 709th and the 95th recently changed flags, for the remainder of their deployment the 92nd now falls under control of LTC Miller and CSM Stearns. MP units, because of constant attachment to different units due to changing missions, are comfortable with such line-and-block changes and the transition seems to be fairly seamless.

We rolled with a convoy of vehicles, headed north and a bit east, most of it on unimproved dirt roads. Once out of Gardez we gradually gained altitude, and ended up at about 9,500 feet when we hit our destination. Probably “dry, dusty alpine desert” would be the best layman’s terms for the terrain. Large sprawling flat valleys surrounded by steep, sharp mountains mark each populated area. Mountain passes link the valleys, channelizing traffic along predetermined routes. Such terrain favors a defender and it is easy to see how centuries of invaders have been ambushed.

The lead vehicle, in which Avery rode, had a long arm extended from the front bumper with rollers on it (see photo). Any pressure-plate IEDs theoretically will be detonated by the weight thereby sparing the vehicle itself. Of course, if the IED is command-detonated, then all bets are off. Still, it is a good defensive measure.

In addition there are sophisticated electronic systems – called “Dukes” – on each vehicle that provide an interlocking jamming and interference signal that – so the theory goes – can help defeat cell-phone and other signal-detonated IEDs. Every provision is being taken to protect Soldiers and vehicles, but this enemy is much smarter technically than many realize and constantly adjusts his training, tactics, and procedures (TTPs in military parlance) to US and NATO counter-measures.

Today Barnhart left the wire with about 22 Soldiers from his platoon and an attached mortar crew that I’m pretty sure is from the 1/172nd Infantry Battalion, an Army National Guard unit from Vermont that has been in-country for less than a month. When we arrive at Sayyed Karam we spend some time chatting up the mortarmen (see photo at right). Only two – the platoon leader, SFC Adams, and the team leader, SSG Barrett, have previous deployment experience. Adams, a short, thick-bodied black NCO, operates at only one speed: all ahead full. He has a sharp, penetrating voice and booming laugh can be heard dominating conversation all across the camp.

There is a sense among the new Soldiers of what we’ve come to see over the years in any group that is standing at the edge of a dangerous situation and is uncertain as to how they will perform when the time comes. They are hyperactive, a bit too loud, and take pains to display a cool demeanor. You’ll see it in newly deployed units before they hit their first firefight, in paratrooper candidates before the first jump, that sort of thing. After they get through the first one they’ll settle down, but for now the air about them reeks of uncertainty.

By contrast the 92nd Soldiers have been here for at almost 9 months and have been tested, albeit not to the extent some of them wish. It’s not that they are a bunch of blood-thirsty marauders, but when you train up for a combat mission your mental attitude shifts: I’m here, this is a war, bring it on. While some Soldiers are fully content to spend their year sitting on the FOB, these Soldiers are more imbued with Warrior spirit and if given a choice would seek out and close with the enemy at every opportunity.

While perfectly willing to mix it up with the Taliban, the MPs realize that they are here to mentor, train, and support Afghan Uniformed Police (AUP), and to carry out the COIN mission that means winning over confidence among the civilian populace

At Sayyed Karem Soldiers drag a bag filled with school supplies, stuffed bears in multi-colors, candy and food, and distribute it to three young boys who are the sons of one of the Afghan policemen. The kids have natural shyness but run quickly when the goodies come out.

Once again we see on a micro level what has come to characterize American Soldiers for decades. It is as the late historian Stephen Ambrose said: “Of all the armies in the world, when local kids see foreign soldiers they run away and hide. When American soldiers arrive, they run to them for help and security.” In a country in which the Soviet army sowed upwards to 30 million mines, many gaily painted to attract children’s attention, just that change in perception of what a uniformed foreigner is has been a major mental transformation.

Although 1st Platoon has not been to Sayyed Karam in several weeks – they were visiting regularly but other mission requirements took them to other places – their routine is familiar to the AUPs. While LT Barnhart visits successively the mayor, chief of police, and other officials, some of the NCOs drop in on the communications center, others ask their counterparts to assemble AUPs to inventory weapons and check general condition, and still others visit with those responsible for personnel accountability, serious incidents, and enemy activity.

From outward appearances everyone is happy to see the Soldiers, and query why they have been gone so long. The chief is away because a woman was murdered in the town this morning and he has taken a team to investigate. Later we learn that the gathering we saw on the road coming in that morning was her funeral. Under Islamic custom bodies must be buried within 24 hours of death, so that was done. We never learn the circumstances so whatever forensic evidence was associated with her death went into the ground with her.

The mayor (left) is an interesting individual. Somewhat above medium height with dyed henna red hair and the fingernails of his right hand painted a subdued pink, he has the dark eyes, hawk nose, and full beard of many Afghani men. His name is Manur Jan, about early 40s, and has been in the position for several years. In a way that the Americans don’t really understand, he collects taxes of a sort from vendors in the large local bazaar held in the city outside the gates of the camp and reportedly uses them for infrastructure improvements.

“I’m certain that some corruption happens,” Barnhart notes, but it falls into the category that most Americans resign themselves to dealing with. We’ve heard the terms “acceptable” and “unacceptable” corruption for months now, and it is admittedly two extremes with a broad gray area between. Acceptable seems to fit this case, as the mayor no doubt siphons off some for personal use, but still does the local improvements. Unacceptable, to use a well-known case, is when Karzai’s brother in law runs the national opium traffic. All the thousands of cases in between have to be evaluated by Soldiers and civilian analysts.

Also decidedly unacceptable is taxing the population to support warlordism or Taliban.We were assured by the locals that Taliban activity was minimal in the area. However, warmer weather is here and the fighting season approaches. We shall see.