Heading for Bagram, Afghanistan

Finally arrived at Bagram Air Base, Afghanistan sometime just before dawn. We were up all night. And boarded the C-17 gratefully. Every seat was filled with Soldiers, Airmen, Marines, and Sailors headed downrange. When configured for passengers the C-17 has multiple rows of 8-across airline type seats but without the leg room. It also has rows of bench seats along each side and we quickly grabbed a place there. At least we could stretch legs.

The ride for passengers is extremely cramped. Consider that in addition to bodies with desert boots, each passenger also wore body armor, helmet, weapons, and a carry-on bag that went in laps. Surprisingly, there were few complaints, each person recognizing that this was the available mode of transportation on the way to war, and would have to do.

After we were all seated and belted Air Force loadmasters supervised forklift drivers as they brought the pallets to the rear of the aircraft ramp and slid them onto the rollers. Along with ground crew, the loadmasters pushed them into position then secured them to the metal floor with hooks and winch clamps. (Photo: 1LT Lanika Van Borkulo waiting for cargo to be loaded)

Did we mention that it had been raining pretty hard since late afternoon? Ah, well. To our dismay none of the folks over at the loading dock had deemed it useful to take the time to throw plastic covers over the six pallets. As the forklifts raised them into the aircraft water gushed off. I spotted one of my rucksacks - the blue one stood out against the camouflage patterns of the mass - perched atop one pallet.

My suspicions that the contents were soaking wet was later confirmed at Bagram.

Takeoff was dramatic. The C-17 likes to crank to max power at the start of the runway then pull the brakes. There were few tears shed upon leaving Manas. Most of us had our heads downrange. We just needed our bodies to catch up.

On route one of the Soldiers, Sergeant Khan Eakin, from a North Carolina-based Army National Guard Military Intelligence unit headed to Bagram pulled out a magazine. Quick: guess the title.

Did you say Car and Driver, Soldier of Fortune, Muscle, or Guns and Ammo? If so, you missed it.


He was reading Food and Wine. Wow.

Sergeant Eakin told us that he owns two restaurants in Greensboro, North Carolina named Sweet Basil's and Basil's and Lo. He is the head chef ("My sous chef is three rows back," he confided.).

Avery was able to doze on the flight, but I got somewhat claustrophobic midway, which after years of flying in windowless military aircraft surprised me. Later I chalked it up to sleep deprivation and space-time dislocation.

After about ninety minutes we knew we were approaching Bagram when the pilot began evasive action. We began a teenager's dream roller coaster ride with turns, drops of altitude, now negative now positive G forces, and prepared for a combat landing. To our amazement, the highly skilled Air Force pilots greased the landing beautifully. We didn't know we were on the ground till the engines were reversed.