The book "Warrior Police" by Gordon Cucullu and Avery Johnson will be published by St. Martin's Press in 2011. This blog contains background notes, informal interviews, and photographs gathered during the Afghanistan research phase of the project... click here for a little more background on this blog, and enjoy!

Thursday, October 14, 2010

In Dubai, Heading Back Out Into The Wild Blue (Grey) Yonder

A brief note: we arrived in Dubai after a 13 hour flight and are getting ready to depart for Bagram shortly (date and time unsaid, but soon). Unlike last time, when we deployed with the MPs on military flights through a variety of tightly controlled bases in multiple countries, this pause at a very fancy hotel is quite unreal. Everything is so clean and shiny, the staff here practically crash into each other while trying to figure out what we might want or need next, there's always a valet or housekeeper or other service expert underfoot to ensure we're happy and comfortable at every moment.

Not my thing at all, I always feel intensely embarrassed in environments like this. If I want some ice for my soda then it's only natural to go looking for the ice machine in a hotel, although around here the maids and valets get almost hysterical if they catch you foraging around for such basics on their watch. Gordon, on the other hand, slips back into his Colonel mode rather quickly... he operates on a theory that staff members don't feel like they're doing their jobs right unless they have plenty to do.

Well. On the other hand I must admit that the sheets are so soft that it was easy to have a six hour nap this afternoon after the flight, sheets that we'll both undoubtedly miss terribly while downrange. The food is wonderful beyond belief too, with lots of silver and linen napkins to go with the sushi, gourmet cheeses, hummus platters, dozens of varieties of hand baked breads and muffins, and the most extraordinary fruit juices one can imagine. We're excusing ourselves from tonight's belly dance performance (yikes! I'm no prude but certainly don't want anything to do with that either!) yet still enjoyed the three martini happy hour package.

Everything's hideously expensive but since we won't be spending a dime for the coming month it was more important to pick a safe, reliable hotel close to the airport. Speaking of expensive, GADS, it's costing nearly $600 *each* one way to fly into Afghanistan on a commercial airline!!! That seriously hurt (particularly while realizing we'll have to fly out the same way with similar costs) but again, staying in B-huts far away from any stores or other places to spend money will even out the economic side of things.

Next stop will be with the 95th MPs somewhere in or around Paktia province, back to the dust, grime, and land of the human "land mines" that're scattered just about everywhere (basic sanitation is... well, mostly unknown in many places outside the FOBs). I wish we could afford to give every Soldier there a night or two at a fancy hotel in Dubai (they'd relish this so much more than I ever will). We're just looking forward to seeing all of them again at their new FOB, and hearing all about what's happened during these past months while we've been away. Many many new stories to be swapped back and forth over non-alcoholic Becks near-beers in the days just ahead.

Unsure about exactly where we're going but already know many of those who we'll be staying and riding with again, hooray! Ooops -- like, I'd meant to shout more properly in military-speak here: HOOAH!

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