On 21 April we joined a joint convoy of US Military Police and Afghan Uniformed Police on a three-hour, 38 kilometer trip in and out of the famous Khowst-Gardez Pass. The pass transverses part of the White Mountains and links two key eastern provinces. (Pictured: a member of our convoy, Specialist Lovenburg, in the K-G Pass.)
It is a trecherous road in places, closed by frequent landslides and unstable, narrow roadbeds. Despite the climb - it rises to almost 10,000 feet at the top - it is a major route for goods entering the country from Pakistan, exports, and inter-province trade in food products, firewood, and people.
Most goods are moved by "jingle trucks" - colorfully decorated, dilapidated vehicles that haul enormous loads across the pass. With bald tires and problematic mechanical condition, one wonders how they make it at all. (Pictured: one of the many jingle trucks that squeezed past our MRAP on the unpaved and extremely narrow mountain road.)
While slowly creeping along a narrow roadway with a steep cliff on one side and a thousand-foot drop into a mountain river on the other, frequent caravans of Kochi nomads pass casually along, tending herds of sheep and goats, hustling loaded donkeys, or steering camels with children and livestock too small to make the walk tied securely to their packs. Little boys ride the top of the hump in colorful garb.
The mission was to accompany AUP leadership to major sites along the pass, including Waza Zadran and Shwak, two large police encampments, and two smaller, permanent traffic check points.
Along the way we also made a brief stop at Combat Outpost Wilderness, a Coalition base camp where elements of the 92nd MP Company keep a permanant presence.
LTC Duane Miller, commander of the 95th MP Battalion, and his Command Sergeant Major Henry Stearns were along for the trip, accompanying Afghan Police General Farar on the inspection.
The convoy of several MRAP armored vehicles was joined in Gardez by a handful of hunter green AUP Ford Ranger trucks, all with RPK machine guns mounted in the bed. Since Taliban presence in the pass is a given, everyone was on the alert. The necessity of takng the same route out as into the pass - there is no alternative road - increased the danger of IED or ambush.
The AUP general is a pro-active leader. He questioned subordinates about missions, care and feeding of soldiers, and maintenance of grounds and vehicles.
At the two major stations he did not see or hear what was up to his standards and promptly relieved the commanders, instructing them to turn over their stations to the men he was sending to replace them. (Pictured: Afghan soldiers standing by while listening to the General first chew out and then dismiss their supervising officer.)
Colonel Miller and CSM Stearns have high regard for the general and support his actions. This convoy was the first time that both US and AUP forces have engaged in a joint operation of this type. "We're going to do a lot more of this kind of thing," Miller said, obviously pleased with the results.
Unlike units such as Special Forces that have much more aggressive operational tempo, Military Police operate on the need to have AUP forces take the lead and the initiative.
"Until they realize how effective these kinds of operations are and develop the confidence to do them on their own, they will always depend on us. We are doing everything we can to encourage their confidence and independence," Miller said.
There are some heart-stopping moments in transiting the K-G Pass, even without someone shooting at you. The views, while occasionally terrifying, are stunning.
A universal comment from Soldiers and writers alike was that "this is what we expected to see when we came to Afghanistan." (Pictured: US Soldiers and their Afghan counterparts inspecting a lookout bunker far above the main Waza Zadran facility.)
Soaring peaks, rising toward the east and north eventually become the Himalayas. In the near distance, the Pakistan border sits, generally ignored by the Pashtu tribesmen who occupy both sides.
Now that spring is in the air, the valleys are greening up splendidly, making the terrain softer and more visually appealing than the stark desolation of the tail end of winter.
Fast-moving water flows through the steep valleys and draws; small, hand-tilled fields are sprouting, and new lambs and kids play on the mountain sides.
This idlyic picture is darkened by the harsh realities of life for an Afghan peasant: farming at the survival level and fearful of roaming Taliban who impose taxes, take young boys, and threaten the lives of any who cooperate with the government.
By extending rule of law through Afghan resources - the Army and Police primarily - the MPs and the Coalition intend to make life more peaceful and relatively prosperous for ordinary people. (Pictured: an Afghan guard mans a roadside checkpoint.)
It is a laudable goal in a land that has rarely known such security.
The book "Warrior Police" by Gordon Cucullu and Avery Johnson will be published by St. Martin's Press in 2011. This blog contains background notes, informal interviews, and photographs gathered during the Afghanistan research phase of the project... click here for a little more background on this blog, and enjoy!
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